Sunday, March 13, 2011

Ed Roth FINK Models


Hey ...These models were built for the Petersen Automotive Museum in Los Angeles, Calif. I started building them the later part of 2008 and finished in April 2009 ...so it took me a little over 18 months to get all 12 of the ROTH/ REVELL FINK models completed. Several alterations were made to each making them one of the most unique series of kits. I built my 1st FINK kit in the summer of '63 and this is the first time I have ever seen all of them together in one place. The kits included in this series are: Angel Fink, Brother Rat Fink on a Bike, DragNut, Fink Eliminator, Mother's Worry, Mr. Gasser, Outlaw with Robbin Hood Fink, Rat Fink, Scuz Fink with Dingbat, Superfink, Surfink, and Tweedy Pie with Boss Fink. I will list the modifications that were made to each kit her ...but you can find a more detailed build up of each kit with more text and more photos at
http://www.edrothworld.com/

If you would like to leave some comments or post some of your Rat Fink stuff ...PLEASE FEEL FREE TO DO SO! ...This stuff keeps me going!

Hope you like 'em! ...Weldon McDowell

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ANGEL FINK...









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What was done to the basic ANGEL FINK kit:

1.) All seams were filed, filled, and sanded smooth.

2.) (4) slots were cut around AF's face for hair.

3.) A new Base cut from 1/8" Masonite.

4.) Plastic blocks glued to heels of both shoes and bottom of kettle for attaching to base with small brass screws.

5.) The stir stick end balls were removed and attached to a 2" longer and straighter, plastic coated wire.

6.) A White enamel primer was used under the Acrylic Craft paints. A lighter shade of color was used to dry-brush the hands and face highlighting the upper area details, then an oil based Walnut stain was applied to everything and wiped away exposing the low area details of the kit.

7.) The serpent is mounted to the base with a pin mounted into the verticle section.

8.) A small diameter brass rod was hammered flat and cut with scissors to make the Serpent's tongue. A matching diameter hole was drilled and the tongue was pressed into place.

9.) A Matte Varnish was applied to protect the acrylic paint then a High Gloss Clear nail polish was used on the eyes, teeth, inner mouth, lips, and fingernails.

10.) Stretch cobwebing was used to simulate the NITRO vapor bubling up from the kettle.
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BROTHER RAT FINK on a BIKE...


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An original 1965 Revell kit was used for this build ...and you wouldn't believe how fragile the frame for the bike was. Here is a list of everything done to the original plastic kit:

1.) All parts were removed from trees, filed, a test fit done, then glued together with styrene glue or epoxy.

2.) RF's nose was filled with Aves Apoxy Sculpt to give it the correct shape. Both arms were cut apart at the elbow and repositioned for the pose. The right hand was cut into 3 pieces, 2 of the fingers were cut in 2 pieces, and all were assembled giving the hand the proper roll and the fingers the proper position for the PEACE SIGN. Aves Apoxy Sculpt was used to smooth out all of the seams.

3.) Slots were cut into the top of the head and under the ears to stuff in the Black/Silver hair.

4.)Thick pieces of plastic were cut and attached to the bottom of the boots to attach the figure with brass screws to the 1/8" Masonite base.

5.)The figure was painted with acrylic craft paints brush painted over a white enamel primer. The distressed leather effect was created with a Crackle Paint base coat. An oil based Walnut stain was brushed on over the color and wiped off with cheese cloth to bring up the low are details. A Matte Varnished was applied to protect the craft paint from rubbing off.

6.) The front forks were cut away leaving only the front axle and hubs. The Springer Style front end was made with aluminum tubing, springs are wrapped floral wire, Tripple trees were made from aluminum sheet and attached to a plastic tube which fir insde the yoke. The yoke was cut and a slight rake applied. The handle bars were made from plastic coated wire. The clamps were made from plastic tubing and plastic coated wire attached to slide inside of the aluminum tubing. The grips and levers were removed from the kit supplied bars and reattached to the new bars. The left lever was removed and a dice jockey shifter fabricated and attached to the tank. Twin carbs were added between the 2 cylinders. The stock footpegs were removed and new, more detailed pegs, were made from plastic coated wire and plastic tubing. A new Sissy Bar was made from plastic coated wire. A font disc brake and caliper were made from plastic plate and attached to the front wheel. Holes were drilled and plastic rod used for throttle and brake cables. A cross member was added under the seat for the new seat spring rest. A small hole was drilled up through the base and into the rear wheel an attaches the bike to the base with a brass screw.

7.) The bike and parts were primed with a white enamel primer. The Chrome parts were then airbrushed with Black enamel the shot with SPAZTIX Chrome. Persimmon Pearl was used for the color and a catalyzed automotive clear was used for the topcoat. The wide whites were applie with a brush with the wheel turning slowly in a drill.

8.) The "BERDOO" sign post was added to balance out the base. I spotted a similar sign while looking through my collection of Roth drawings ...it came from the '64 decal "California Choppers". It was made from wooden balsa strips and plastic rectangular rod.

Well ...that's pretty much it ...hope you like it ...Weldon

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DRAGNUT...

 





 
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Here's the list of everything I added to and/or changed on this kit:

1.) The Bantam bodied car received a roll bar, parachute, parachute chord sleeve, rip chord, "REMOVE BEFORE FL
IGHT" flag, shifter arm with ceramic skull shifter knob.

2.) Taller aluminum velocity stacks (insides painted red), distributor, plug wires w/ boots on both ends, larger rear tires, axle, and axle tube, lowered front suspension, wide whitewalls front and rear, airbrushed body w/ a catalyzed automotive clear topcoat, Chrome parts airbrushed with Spaztix Chrome.

3.) Rear wheels were mounted to the base with two 2x1/2 brass screws.A thick plastic strip was attached to the bottom of the engine allowing it to be mounted to the engine bay with two 2x3/8 brass screws.

4.) The DragNut figure was assembled, seams filed away with jewelers files, then sprayed with a white enamel primer. Acrylic craft paints were used for color, the helmet was airbrushed w/ a catalyzed automotive clear topcoat. Thin slots were cut into the head front and back just under the bottom edge of the helmet and below the chin to allow strips of craft fur to be pushed through. The helmet is attached with Velcro buttons. The helmet straps were drilled and painted with a "crackle" paint. Thick plastic plates were installed in the bottom of the shoes allowing the figure to be mounted to the base with two 2x1/2 brass screws.

5.) The base is 1/8" masonite made to match the 8 other kit bases. The little Rat Fink has a small hole drilled through the bottom of one foot up through that leg and he slips over a piece of plastic coated wire.

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FINK ELIMINATOR...

My inspiration for this build comes from a Johnny Ace poster.







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1.) Removed pieces from the sprue and cleaned everything up for assembly.

2.) Aves Apoxy Sculpt was used to extend and reshape the eye.

3.) Added five extra teeth made from sheet plastic.

4.) Base made from 1/8" Masonite.

5.) A thick plastic plate was used uder the figure and the crushed car to mount the pieces to the base with (3) #2 x 1/2 brass screws.

6.) The "Cherry Bomb" was drilled and a 18 ga. floral wire inserted to mount it to the base.

7.) A large opened end wrench was fabricated from sheet plastic.

8.) One of the back pockets opened up for the wrench and a shop-rag made from tissue paper was inserted.

9.) All seams were filled, filed/sanded, and made ready for painting.

10.) Everything was primed with a white enamel primer to make the colors brighter.

11.) Acrylic water-based Craft paints were used to paint the figure. Next a dry brush technique was used to bring out the details ...then an oil based Walnut stain was used to bring up the low area details.

12.) The figure was topcoated wth a Matte Varnish to protect the acrylic paints from rubbing off.

13.) A high gloss clear nail polish was added to the eye, eye-socket, teeth, inner mouth, lip area, and the finger and toe nails.

12.) The car was painted with Boyd's Aluma Coupe Yellow.

13.) Slobber on the tonge is epoxy.
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MOTHER'S WORRY...



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This is the list of additional things done to the kit:

1.) Tonneau cover was made from sheet plastic. Holes were drilled and pin heads were inserted to simulate snaps.

2.) Alclad Chrome was airbrushed to simulate chrome.

3.) Aluminum tubing was used for carb intake stacks.

4.) The Steering column and shifter arm were made from plastic coated wire.

5.) The shifter knob is a small dice from the 1950's.

6.) The gas cap and filler tube was made from plastic tubing. The gas tank is pinned to both sides of the rear frame.

7.) The rear frame rails were boxed using sheet plastic.

8.) A plastic tube was slipped inside aluminum tubing for the center section of the axle. Aluminum tubing was also used on the outer ends of the axle.

9.) A small slot was cut under the lower lip and a small piece of fur stuffed in for the goatee. The hair piece was glued to the underside of the cap.

10.) A distributor was made from plastic tubing and plug wires made from telephone wire.

11.) The figure was painted with blended King's Gold, Ivory, and Rose acrylic craft paints ...then the high spots of the plastic dry brushed with a lighter shade. An oil based walnut stain was applied then wiped off highlighting the lower are details.

12.) A high gloss clear nail polish was used on the the eyes, teeth, lips, tongue, finger and toenails.

13.) Testors Paints by Boyd "Sunburst" was airbrushed onto the '23 T then top coated with a catalyzed automotive clear.

14.) The engine was attached with two 1/2 x 2 brass screws.

15.) The figure and T-bucket are secured to the 1/8" Masonite base with 1/2 x 2 Brass screws.

16.) A woven bracelet was made from waxed chord to conceal the seam at his wrist ...the hand still turns.

17.) The cracked leather effect for the cap was achieved by first painting it with a light brown paint, then a coat of crackle paint, then painted with black.

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MR. GASSER...



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Here's a list of modifications made to the basic kit:

1.) All parts were removed from the sprue, cleaned up with jeweler's files and test fit. The pieces were then glued together and the seams worked down with files.

2.) The firewall was cut and the engine moved back.

3.) The single pulley and belt blob was cut off the front of the engine and another pulley made from 3 different size tubes. A thin plastic strip was used for the fan belt.

4.) A distributor was made from plastic tubing and plastic coated wire. 8 holes were drilled in the cap for plug wires.

5.) Plug wires are short pieces of telephone wire and boots were made from larger insulation.

6.) The drivers hand was closed off at the thumb and index finger. That plate was removed, the hand opened up, the steering wheel added along with extendeing the fingers inside the hand and around the steering wheel.

7.) The steering column and shifter arm were replaced with plastic coated wire.

8.) Larger axle tubes were made from plastic and aluminum tubing.

9.) A tongue was made from Aves Apoxy Sculpt for the blower scoop.

10.) Rocker moldings were made from plastic angle.

11.) Everything was primed with a White enamel primer to allow for the colors to be thier brightest.

12.) All the shinny parts were painted with Alclad Chrome.

13.) The '57 Chevy was airbrushed with House of Kolor "Dreamsicle" then a catalyzed automotive clear was applied.

14.) Mr. Gasser was painted with acrylic craft paints then stained with and oil based stain. A Matte Varnished was used to protect the acrylic paint.

15.) The orange hair is used for fly fishing lures and purchased from J. Stockard Fly Fishing.

16.) The base is 1/8" masonite and the model is attached with 1/2 x 2 brass screws.

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OUTLAW with ROBBIN HOOD FINK...








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Here's what was done to the basic kit:

1.) All parts were removed from the sprews and cleaned up with Exacto knife or filed, then test fit.

2.) An inner mouth piece was made from Aves Apoxy Sculpt. The gun barrels were removed and replaced with (2) 3/16" longer pieces of plastic tubing.

3.) Matching pieces were glued with styrene glue then filed to eliminate the seams. All pieces were then assembled then this process was repeated before primming with a white enamel primer.

4.) Acrylic craft paints were used on the figure, then dry-brushed with a lighter color to bring up the highlights. An oil based Walnut stain was then applied and wiped away to bring up the low area details. Everything was then topped with a Matte Varnish for protection.along with

5.) The base was made from 1/8" Masonite to match the other 10 builds. The figure was attached to the seat with a #2 - 3/8" brass screws. The OUTLAW was attached to the base wuth (2) #2 - 5/16" brass screws at the rear wheels.

6.) The tree was found outside and bratches were added using a drill and epoxy glue. It was stained with a Walnut stain then top coated with a Matte Varnish. The tumbleweed was made from moss, then trimmed to shape.

7.) The OUTLAW was airbrushed with a two coats of Boyd Lime Pearl enamel paint then top coated with a catalyzed automotive clear.

OUTLAW with ROBBIN NOOD FINK! ...this kit really FINKED me up! I have a small pile of broken parts from two kits as a reminder of how tough this kit was for me to build ...Thank GOD for re-issues!
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RAT FINK...



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The base color is Apple Green, dry brushed with Geko Green, then lightened again by dry brushing with Yellow.

Modifications included are:

1) All seams filled, filed, and sanded smooth

2.) Eye dips filled

3.) Crooked little toe added

4.) Feet repositioned

5.) Molded hair removed and Silver/Black craft fur added to the top of the head and under the ears

6.) Finger and Toe Nails painted and White free edge added

7.) Curve in tail was tightened up a little

8.) Drool was made from a short piece of clear fishing line that was attached to the lower lip ...then a very small amount of 5 minute epoxy was added ...and of course the ever present tail bandage.

...and another one down!___________________________________________________________________________________

SCUZZ FINK with DINGBAT...



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Here is a list of what was done to this kit:

1.)All parts were removed from the sprue and cleaned up with jeweler’s files.

2.) Matching parts were joined together and the seams cleaned up with jeweler’s files. Glazing putty was used where needed to remove all traces of any seam.

3.) Small brass screws were used to attach the figure to the Ding Bat.

4.) Lead weight was attached to the base to counter balance the assembly.

5.) The flag pole was replaced with a longer and straighter plastic coated wire.

6.) Longer, tapered antennas were made from plastic coated wire and plastic tubing.

7.) (3) of the (4) hands were drilled and plastic coated wire inserted for a stronger joint.

8.) The mounting pins for the Jet-Pack were removed, holes drilled and plastic rod inserted …the Jet- Pack is mounted without cement to the back of the suit.

9.)A white enamel primer was used as the base coat.

10.) The “skin” was taped off and an acrylic Pearl Silver was airbrushed on the space suit.

11.) A Clear Metalflake Silver was airbrushed over the Pearl Silver.

12.) A catalyzed automotive Clear was airbrushed for the final top coat.

13.) The tape was removed and these areas were brush painted with an acrylic Geco Green then dry brushed with Yellow to bring out the highlights.

14.) An oil based Mahogany stain was applied to these surfaces and wipe away with cheese cloth highlighting the low area details. A coat of Semi-Gloss Polycrylic was brushed on to protect the paint from rubbing off.

15.) The same procedure was followed on the primered flag and base except an oil base Walnut stain was used.

16.) A chute-pull was made from plastic coated wire to replace the plastic piece and a “REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT” flag was added. Pulled cobweb material was stuffed into the exhausts of the Jet-Pack to simulate Vapor.

17.) The handles on the Ray Gun were painted with an Ivory color. A hole was drilled and a wire ring made to attach the waxed chord Wrist Straps.

18.) A High Gloss nail polish was used on the eyes, teeth, tongues, inner mouth, lips, finger and toenails.

19.) The antennas, Ray Gun, and Jet-Pack were airbrushed with Alclad Chrome.

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SUPERFINK...



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Here's a list of modifications that were added to the basic kit:


1.) All pieces were removed from the sprue, cleaned up with jeweler's files, and were assembled with styrene cement.

2.) All seams were filed, filled, sanded, and primed with a white enamel primer prior tp being painted with acrylic craft paints. An oil based walnut stain was applied to the figure and crab then wiped off with a cheesecloth.

3.) A base was made from 1/8" Masonite. A tab was made from thick sheet plastic and added to the bottom of the right foot and a No 2 x 1/2" brass screw was used to attach the figure to the skateboard.

4.) The engine mounted to the skateboard received a gas cap, fuel line, Spark Plug with wire and boot all made from plastic rod, plastic tubing, and plastic coated wire.

5.) The hand held throttle and cable were made from platic rod, plastic coated wire, and plastic tubing.

6.) The toes on both feet and Superfink's front teeth were separated with an Exacto knife for more detail.

7.) Slots were cut in the head under the R.F. hat and black craft fur stuffed in for hair.
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SURFINK...


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Here's what I did:

1.) All pieces were removed from the sprue, cleaned up with jeweler's files, and were assembled with styrene cement.

2.) All seams were filed, filled, sanded, and primed with a white enamel primer prior tp being painted with acrylic craft paints. An oil based walnut stain was applied to the figure and crab then wiped off with a cheesecloth.

3.) A base was made from 1/8" Masonite. Tabs were made and added to the bottom of the wave and (3) 1/2 x brass screws used to attach the base.

4.) An aluminum plate was made to fill the opening of the wave.

5.) Thick pieces of plastic were cut and fitted to the inside bottoms of both feet under the ankle. The figure was placed onto the surfboard, then placed over the wave opening. An outlind was drawn around the feet locating all three pieces. Holes were drilled up through the bottoms of the feet under the ankles. into the surfboard, and one through the aluminum plate in the wave opening. A short pin was fitted into the front foot and the surfboard. A 1/2 x 2 brass screw secures the figure, surfboard, and wave mounted from under the wave opening.

6.) A shark fin was made from sheet plastic and located under the surfboard.

7.) A Shark Bite was taken out of the wave using sprue cutters and nipping the edge of the board between the feet.

8.) A leash was made from jeweler's wire and waxed chord. A hole was drilled in the rear of the board and an 18 ga wire used to make the leash attachment ring.

9.) PrismaColor Pencils were used to add color to the white surfboard. It was then top coated with a catalyzed automotive clear.

10.) The wave was sprayed with Crystal Clear enamel, the figure was top coated with a Matte Varnish. A high gloss clear nail polish was used to coat the eyes, teeth, inner mouth, lips, tongue, finger and toe nails.

11.) The hair piece was heated with a hair dryer then the hair reshaped to fit the top of the head better.

12.) Ball head pins were used to create larger eyes for the crab.

13.) Waxed chord was used to add draw strings to the swim trunks.

14.) The "R.F." hat was made from a craft Witch Hat.

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TWEEDY PIE with BOSS FINK...



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This is not an original Tweedy Pie with Boss Fink build up. This build uses Revell's Tweedy Pie 2, a resin figure, resin wheels, kit bashed carbs and stacks, a scratch built round gas tank, and a plastic coated wire shifter arm.

There wasn't a whole lot of modifications added to this kit at all. A Revell Tweedy Pie II kit was used to replicate the '65 version of Ed "Big Daddy" Roth's Tweedy Pie T-bucket. Resin pieces were used for the Boss Fink figure and zany warped wheels. The oval gas tank w/ filler neck and cap was made from plastic sheet plastic and plastic tubing. Plastic coated wire was used to make the long curved shifter arm. A six pack of Stromberg carbs and intakes were snatched from the scrap box. The figure was secured to the interior tub with one #2 brass screw then dropped into the T-bocket. All four wheels were drilled and attached to the 1/8" masonite base with (4) #2 brass screws. The fragile little suspension was beefed up to support the extra weight of the big resin figure with plastic sheet, plastic covered wire, and (1) metal axle.

This was a very tough build for me this time too. Parts from 3 Tweedy Pie II kits were used, FIVE sets of Revell's CRAPPY decals (absolutely the worst I've ever tried to use) were used to get the (2) license plates, top of grill shell, top of cowl, the (6) instruments on the dash, the (4) decals for the gas tank, and 2 sets of resin wheels, (6) 2-piece windshields were cut and fit ...to get the final piece you see in the pictures. This is a pretty rare kit to see for sure ...I have only seen four over the last 45 years myself ...and I am glad to of been able to build this one.

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I hope you have enjoyed viewing and reading about building these models and the work that went into each of them. This entire set belongs to the PETERSEN AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM in Los Angeles, California. If you are ever out that way I hope you stop in to see this unique, one of a kind, collection of Ed "Big Daddy" Roth's Monsters.

I made an 11" x 14" poster with at least 2 photos of each of these kits.



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I also made a set of (12) 5" x 7" photos of them:





I have them on eBay ever so often if you are interested in having something like this for yourself. Please see eBay seller: weldonmc

Thanks ...Weldon